Guide · Brushes and deshedding
How to line brush a dog
Line brushing works through the coat in thin layers so the brush reaches the skin. The step-by-step method, tools, where mats hide, and when to stop.

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Short answer
Line brushing means parting the coat into thin horizontal layers and brushing each layer out from the skin, then checking it with a metal comb. It is the practical way to follow AAHA's advice to brush all the way to the skin, parting the hair to reach the undercoat.[1] It finds tangles before they become mats. Use it on long, double and curly coats; smooth coats do not need it.
Why brushing the top of the coat is not enough
A brush that only skims the surface leaves the hair near the skin untouched, and that is where tangles start. The sources are consistent about going deeper:
- AAHA says to brush all the way to the skin, parting the hair to reach the undercoat, where most loose fur collects.[1]
- AKC says a full Poodle coat that is not brushed and combed completely to the skin mats near the roots and must be shaved off.[2]
- AKC describes brushing a long Shih Tzu coat in layers to reach the skin, and brushing a Pomeranian down to the skin once a week to prevent mats.[3][4]
Line brushing is how you do that on a coat too thick to brush through in one pass.
What you need
- A slicker or pin brush that suits the coat. Slickers for dense, double and curly coats; pin brushes for long, flowing coats. See slicker vs pin brush.
- A metal comb. AKC calls one "a necessity" for the Cocker Spaniel's coat and says to comb through to the skin.[5]
- A few hair clips (optional) to hold the upper coat out of the way.
- A stable, non-slip surface. Professional grooming standards call for non-slip grooming tables and say no pet should be left unsupervised on one.[6]
How to line brush, step by step
- Start with a dry coat. AKC's Golden Retriever page says the dog must be completely dry before brushing after a bath.[7]
- Begin low on a back leg. Part the hair in a horizontal line near the foot, so you can see skin along the part.
- Hold the upper coat out of the way with your free hand or a clip.
- Brush the thin layer below the part, from the skin outward, in the direction the hair grows. Use gentle strokes and let the brush do the work, without pressing the pins into the skin.[8][9]
- Comb the same layer. The comb should slide from the skin to the tips. If it catches, brush that spot again.
- Drop the next layer and repeat, moving the part up a brush-width at a time until you reach the top of the leg.
- Work around the body in the same way: the other back leg, the hindquarters and tail, the flanks and back, the front legs, then the chest, neck and ears.
- Finish with a full comb-through and a reward.
Work slowly around thin skin. AKC warns that the skin at the edge of a Cocker Spaniel's ears is thin and can be pierced by vigorous combing.[5]
Where mats hide
Check these friction spots in every session. AKC lists the first three for the Shetland Sheepdog.[10]
| Spot | What to look for |
|---|---|
| Behind the ears | Fine, soft hair that knots easily |
| Under the elbows (the "armpits") | Hair that rubs with every step |
| The "pants" on the back legs | Long hair the dog sits on |
| Collar line, tail base and belly | Hair rubbed by collars, harnesses and lying down |
| Between the toes | AKC notes hair here can mat easily and may need a careful trim from a professional.[8] |
When you find a tangle
Small tangles can be worked out at home. Hold the hair between the tangle and the skin so you are not pulling on the dog, then pick it apart with the end of the comb or short slicker strokes. AKC's Cocker Spaniel advice is to pick snarls apart rather than pull them.[5]
A mat that is tight against the skin is a different matter. Do not cut it out with scissors: VCA says to remove mats with clippers, never scissors, and to get professional help for severe tangles.[11] Mats so dense the skin cannot dry under them are the one case where AKC says shaving even a double coat is justified, by a professional.[12]
How often to line brush
| Coat | How often the sources say to brush |
|---|---|
| Long, silky or curly coats | VCA says daily, to prevent tangles and mats.[11] |
| Poodle in a full coat | AKC says daily, unless kept in a short trim.[2] |
| Maltese | AKC says daily gentle brushing and combing to the skin.[13] |
| Pomeranian | AKC says once a week, down to the skin.[4] |
| Shetland Sheepdog | AKC says weekly, more often in shedding season.[10] |
| Most other dogs | AKC says a few brushing sessions a week; long-coated breeds often do best with daily brushing.[8] |
You do not have to line brush the whole dog in one sitting. Short sessions add up: AAHA says just 5 to 10 minutes, two or three times a week, can significantly reduce loose hair.[1] Doing one or two legs a day is fine if that keeps your dog relaxed.
Next
Questions
What is line brushing?
A way of brushing a thick or long coat in thin horizontal layers, so the brush reaches the skin instead of skimming the top. It follows AAHA's advice to brush all the way to the skin, parting the hair to reach the undercoat.[1]
Which dogs need line brushing?
Dogs with long, double or curly coats. AKC describes layering a Shih Tzu's coat to reach the skin, brushing a Pomeranian down to the skin, and brushing and combing a full Poodle coat completely to the skin. Smooth-coated dogs don't need it.[3][4][2]
Can I line brush a wet dog?
Wait until the coat is completely dry. AKC's Golden Retriever page says the dog must be completely dry before brushing after a bath.[7]
What should I do if I find a mat?
Work small tangles apart with the comb, holding the hair at the base so you don't pull the skin. Leave tight mats to a professional: VCA says to remove mats with clippers, never scissors, and to get professional help for severe tangles.[5][11]
How long should a line-brushing session take?
As long as your dog stays relaxed. Split the body across several short sessions if you need to; AAHA says just 5 to 10 minutes two or three times a week can significantly reduce loose hair.[1]