Guide · Bathing, ears and teeth
How to clean dog ears safely
Clean only when you see dirt or debris, skip cotton swabs, alcohol and peroxide, and know the warning signs that mean a vet visit instead of a cleaning.

Short answer
Clean a healthy dog's ears only when you can see dirt or debris; cleaning more often can irritate them. Never use cotton swabs, which push debris deeper, or solutions that contain alcohol or hydrogen peroxide.[1] If an ear is red, itchy, smelly, discharging or sore to the touch, don't clean it: have your vet look at it first.
First, look
Check both ears before you reach for a cleaner. Cornell's Riney Canine Health Center lists the warning signs that mean an ear needs a vet, not a cleaning.[1]
| You notice | Do this |
|---|---|
| A clean, comfortable ear | Leave it alone |
| Visible dirt or debris, and nothing else | A gentle clean is fine (steps below) |
| Redness, itching, head shaking, discharge or more wax than usual, or an odor | Don't clean it; contact your vet[1] |
| Discomfort when the ear is touched | Stop; Cornell says to consult a veterinarian if your dog seems to be in pain[1] |
What to use and what to avoid
| Use | Avoid | Why |
|---|---|---|
| An ear cleaner your vet recommends, without alcohol or hydrogen peroxide | Alcohol, hydrogen peroxide, or cleaners that contain them | Cornell advises avoiding both[1] |
| A soft pad for the parts of the ear you can see | Cotton swabs | Cornell: swabs push debris deeper[1] |
| Gentle cleaning of the outer ear | Plucking hair inside the ear | AKC's groomer standards: avoid plucking internal ear hair; gentle external cleaning is permitted[2] |
| Treats and a short session | Holding a struggling dog still | AVSAB warns that full physical restraint is unsafe for most owners and very stressful for the pet[3] |
How to clean a dirty ear, step by step
- Check for warning signs first. If you see any from the table above, stop here and call your vet.
- Make sure it needs cleaning. Cornell says to clean healthy ears only when you see dirt or debris, because overcleaning can irritate them.[1]
- Settle your dog. Pick a calm moment and have treats ready. Pair each touch of the ear with a reward, as AVSAB suggests for any handling.[3]
- Use the cleaner as its label or your vet directs. Choose one without alcohol or hydrogen peroxide.[1]
- Wipe gently, outer ear only. Clean the parts you can see with a soft pad. Don't push anything into the ear canal; Cornell warns that cotton swabs push debris deeper.[1]
- Stop if it hurts. If your dog seems to be in pain, stop and consult your vet.[1]
- Reward and finish. Don't clean again until you see dirt again.
If your dog pulls away, shakes off or folds its ears back, those are stress signals; VCA's advice is to pause.[4] Try again another day from an easier step, such as just touching the ear flap. How to groom an anxious dog explains how to build up.
How often?
There is no fixed schedule for healthy ears. Cornell's rule is to clean only when dirt or debris is noted, because cleaning more often can irritate the ear.[1] Looking at the ears is a different matter. A quick check during each brushing session is how you spot the warning signs in the table above, and it gets your dog used to having its ears handled when nothing is wrong.
Leave ear hair alone
AKC's professional grooming standards say to avoid plucking internal ear hair, while gentle external cleaning is permitted.[2] If you think hair in your dog's ears is causing a problem, that is a question for your vet.
Protect the ears during other grooming
- Drying. AKC says to keep the dryer away from the face and ears.[5]
- Combing long ear hair. On Cocker Spaniels, AKC warns that the skin at the edges of the ears is thin and can be pierced by vigorous combing.[6] Comb ear feathering slowly and gently, on any breed.
- Mats behind the ears. AKC tells Shetland Sheepdog owners to check for mats behind the ears, under the elbows and in the "pants."[7] On any long coat, comb behind the ears at every session, and never cut a mat out with scissors; see cat mats: what not to do for why.
- Keep wrinkle products out of the ears. AKC's Bulldog page suggests hydrogen peroxide on a cotton ball for facial wrinkles.[8] That advice is for wrinkles only: Cornell advises against hydrogen peroxide in ears.[1]
What we don't list
We don't recommend a specific ear cleaner: nothing in our catalog meets our bar, and the right cleaner depends on your dog's ears. Ask your vet which one to use, and check the label for alcohol and hydrogen peroxide before you buy.
Next
Questions
How often should I clean my dog's ears?
Only when you see dirt or debris. Cornell says to clean healthy ears only when it is needed, because overcleaning can irritate them.[1]
Can I use cotton swabs on my dog's ears?
No. Cornell advises against cotton swabs because they push debris deeper into the ear.[1]
Is hydrogen peroxide safe for cleaning dog ears?
Cornell advises avoiding cleaning solutions that contain hydrogen peroxide or alcohol. Ask your vet which ear cleaner suits your dog.[1]
Should the hair inside my dog's ears be plucked?
AKC's professional grooming standards say to avoid plucking internal ear hair and permit only gentle external cleaning. If you think ear hair is causing a problem, ask your vet.[2]
What are the signs of an ear problem in a dog?
Cornell lists redness, itching, head shaking, discharge or increased wax, odor and discomfort when the ear is touched. See your vet rather than cleaning the ear yourself.[1]